Georgia: Tbilisi, Winelands & Highlands

Activity note: Hotel check-in available from 2:00 p.m. The altitude in central Tbilisi ranges from 591-1991 feet. Large buses cannot enter the narrow roads of the Sololaki neighborhood; we may walk two blocks from Freedom Square when not arriving via smaller vehicle. Luggage assistance will be provided to the hotel.

Dinner: At a restaurant within walking distance of the hotel.

Evening: At leisure.

Activity note: Getting on/off a bus; driving about 15 miles throughout the day, mostly in the city. Getting on/off a cable car. Walking about 2 miles, up to 2.5 hours in the morning on uneven and hard surfaces; some inclines on cobblestone, some stairs.

Breakfast: At the hotel.

Morning: Orientation: 9:00 a.m. The Group Leader will greet everyone and lead introductions. We will review the up-to-date program schedule, discuss roles and responsibilities, logistics, safety guidelines, emergency procedures, and answer questions. Program-related travel and transfers will be by private bus unless otherwise noted. We will learn from the Group Leader and a series of local experts who will give lectures and lead field trips. Meals will be provided at the hotel and local restaurants unless otherwise noted. Setting out on foot, we will explore the oldest part of the charming town of Tbilisi. We’ll proceed towards Gabriadze’s leaning clock tower, something out of a fairy tale. We will visit the Anchiskhati Basilica, proceed to Narikala Fortress by cable car, and then continue walking to the Maidan and the Abanotubani Historic District, where the famous Sulfur Baths of Tbilisi are located.

Lunch: At a local restaurant.

Afternoon: We will ride on the bus to the Ilia Chavchavadze Literary-Memorial Museum, which celebrates the life and accomplishments of the Georgian public figure, journalist, publisher, writer, and poet. Chavchavadze spearheaded the revival of Georgian nationalism during the second half of the 19th century and ensured the survival of the Georgian language, literature, and culture during the last decades of Tsarist rule. The museum houses materials of Ilia Chavchavadze’s life and work, including memorial belongings, documents and photo archives, periodicals, manuscripts, and paintings. Onsite, we’ll enjoy a enjoy a performance and Q&A session about Georgian polyphonic vocal traditions. Developing independently of Western European rules of harmony, Georgian vocal music has been passed down by ear for hundreds of years – possibly since the 5th century BCE. Its tuning system is based on fifths rather than octaves, giving its choral music a rich yet slightly discordant sound (to western ears). The traditional structure of these old songs incorporates one voice singing the high part, one in the middle and one or two taking the low part, often a drone. Each of Georgia’s ethnic regions has its own typical harmony and way of singing.

Dinner: We will enjoy traditional Georgian food at dinner at a local restaurant.

Evening: At leisure.

Activity note: Getting on/off a bus; driving about 25 miles throughout the day, approximately 2.5 hours total riding time. The highest altitude today will be 2625' at the Chronicles of Georgia monument where it can also be windy.

Breakfast: At the hotel.

Morning: We start the morning with a lecture by a local Georgian on life during the Soviet period in Tbilisi. We’ll then head out by bus to visit the Museum of Soviet Occupation, opened in 2006, on the anniversary of Georgia’s declaration of independence from the Russian Empire in 1918. The permanent exhibit was created to commemorate the almost 900,000 Georgians who were killed or deported during the Soviet years of 1921 to 1991. Photos, videos, and archival documents teach young Georgians – and remind older people – of the country’s history as a Soviet Socialist Republic. Here, we’ll be led by a museum staffer. Next, we’ll visit the Kote & Soso Tsereteli Memorial House-Museum, where staff will lead us. The space showcases two distinct periods from Georgia’s history: one part dedicated to academician Kote Tsereteli, who established Aramaic dialectology; and another devoted to his son Soso Tsereteli – an artist involved with the highly publicized ‘Airplane Case’ during the 1980s. Through this exhibition concept, visitors can experience both sides of pre-Soviet era Georgian life - scientific advancement alongside socio-moral values that ultimately paved way for collapse on an empire.

Lunch: At a local restaurant in Tbilisi, English-speaking Georgian guests who grew up in the Soviet period will join us for lunch and casual conversation about life then and now.

Afternoon: In the afternoon, we’ll drive to see several examples of Soviet architecture and then drive through neighborhoods of housing built during the Soviet period to one of the city’s treasures that few get a chance to visit, the Chronicles of Georgia monument.

Dinner: This meal has been excluded from the program cost and is on your own to enjoy what you like. The Group Leader will be happy to offer suggestions.

Evening: At leisure. Prepare for check-out and transfer in the morning.

Activity note: Getting on/off a bus; driving about 100 miles throughout the day, approximately 4 hours total driving time. Walking a short distance at vineyard, about 1-1.5 miles in Signagi old town, approximately 3 hours.

Breakfast: At the hotel.

Morning: After check-out, we will leave Tbilisi and head east by bus to the Kakheti region of Georgia where we’ll spend the next three nights crisscrossing the region and visiting villages and vineyards. Our theme during our time in Kakheti is “Food, Wine, and Community,” and each day’s experiences will lend to an understanding of the importance of food and wine to Georgian community at every level: familial, village, and country-wide. We’ll drive straight to Tibaani Vineyards, owned by the Pheasant’s Tears Winery based in Signagi. We will enjoy a chance to walk through one of the vineyards of one of the country’s rising stars in the natural wine industry. A local winegrower will join us to tell more about how the grapes are grown, and lead a tour of the cellars where the grapes are macerated and aged in huge ceramic vessels lined with beeswax. Called qvevri, these clay jugs have been used for winemaking for over 8,000 years in this part of the world. Learn more about the techniques of making rich Georgian wine using this natural method. From here, we’ll drive to a nearby village called Qedeli for the afternoon activity.

Lunch: At a local village restaurant with craft beer tasting. In a country known as the birthplace of wine, craft beer is still extremely rare. Lost Ridge specializes in bottle conditioned farmhouse ales including styles such as Saison and Tripel with a Georgian twist. Brewed on-site and aged in the beer cave, the brewery pairs classic Belgian (and other) styles with local Kakhetian fruits and spices in some of their recipes.

Afternoon: We’ll choose from three hands-on activities in the village: Georgian Bread Baking Lesson. Churchkela Making Class. In street corner stands, open-air markets and shops all over Georgia, you’ll see bunches of what look like lumpy Crayola-colored sausages hanging from hooks. These are Georgia’s signature sweets, called churchkela. The chewy, slightly sweet confections are made from nuts, usually walnuts, strung on a string and dipped in a thick concoction made traditionally from concentrated grape juice, flour and a little sugar. The nuts are repeatedly dipped in the coating, which can be made of different fruits that give each string a different color and flavor. Have fun learning how to make this favorite Georgian treat. Gardens Walk at Lost Ridge. Spend some time in the Lost Ridge gardens today. Start from the greenhouse and walk down to the organic orchards where a food forest is in the making. Hear from a local expert about the sustainability aims of this rural enterprise. Learn more about how fruits, nuts and vegetables grown on-site are used in Georgian cuisine and beer-making at Lost Ridge. Drive a few miles to the nearby town of Signagi for a walking field trip. In the 18th century, King Erekle II constructed a defensive wall around the hill-town of Signagi. Its towers were named for the surrounding villages, and the townspeople were meant to gather at their tower in times of trouble. The town’s location in an agricultural region helped it to grow quickly, and it became an important agricultural center for the Soviet Union. Following the fall of the Soviet Union, Signagi suffered an economic crisis and the government invested significantly with an extensive reconstruction project to make Signagi a shining example of a tourist town. Located just a few hours from the capital, indeed it is one of the country’s most popular weekend destinations for locals, expats and diplomats, as well as a favorite of international visitors.

Dinner: At a local restaurant in Signagi.

Evening: At leisure. Prepare for check-out and transfer in the morning.

Activity note: Getting on/off a bus; driving 100 miles, approximately 2.5 hours total riding time. Walking in villages on natural terrain with farmlike conditions.

Breakfast: At the hotel.

Morning: After check-out, we’ll depart by bus for the other side of Kakheti, with three stops en route. We will explore Zinobiani, a village in east Georgia located within the Qvareli Municipality of Kakheti region which has been home to Orthodox Udis since the 1920s. It was founded by refugees from Vartashen who were escaping an Armenian-Azerbaijani conflict of the 1920s, and led by renowned leader Zinobi Silikashvili. Twenty-two more families eventually followed in the coming years, and settled here, before further turbulent events unfolded. After the leader was arrested and executed during the repressionist purges, the village was renamed Oktomberi for nearly 70 years until 2010, when it finally regained its original name. Today, a group of young Udi enthusiasts are dedicated to making their rich cultural and gastronomic heritage known. One member owns api houses (traditional bee therapy places), while others plan to host dinners introducing visitors to local delicacies which remain largely unknown even among Georgians. We’ll enjoy an opportunity to visit the local ethnographic museum, dine with a local and sample traditional dishes, plus visit the community center to learn more about this tiny ethnic group.

Lunch: We’ll enjoy the chance to sample Udi cuisine which incorporates flavors from the Muslim culture, and its main ingredient of choice is usually rice. A must-try dish here is “fakhlinhooft,” a savory combination of beans and rice flavored with basil served alongside matsoni – an authentic Georgian sour cream.

Afternoon: We’ll drive on to Gremi to visit Gremi Fortress, which served as the Kakhetian capital in the 16th century. The Church of Archangels Michael and Gabriel provides several excellent examples of modern frescoes of the Georgian style. Gremi was mentioned in ancient chronicles as a beautiful city of markets, gardens, and palaces, but these were largely destroyed by the armies of Shah Abbas in 1614. Then, we will meet with members of the Temi Community, a community and social enterprise situated in the heart of Gremi village where individuals with diverse backgrounds are empowered to reach their full potential.

Dinner: Enjoy the choice of restaurants at the Tsinandali complex for dinner on your own.

Evening: At leisure.

Activity note: Getting on/off a bus; driving 35 miles, approximately 1.5 hours total riding time. The bus will park near to all sites visited today to minimize walking. Some stairs inside the Chavchavadze Estate Museum and at Ikalto. The winery visit involves walking on natural terrain with farm-like conditions.

Breakfast: At the hotel.

Morning: A day trip by bus takes us to Ikalto and Shalauri villages to learn more about the importance of wine and wine making in Georgia. We’ll explore the Ikalto Monastery, established in the 6th century by one of the Syrian Fathers, Zenon. It became an important place in the 12th century when David the Builder decided to move his base from Gelati Monastery in west Georgia and establish an academy here. On the grounds are the remains of the wine-making school, which was taught among other skills at the academy. Ikalto is also the site of some of the oldest found qvevris in Georgia. In 2013, the traditional Qvevri method of wine-making was honored by UNESCO when it was inducted into their prestigious Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage – a tribute to its unique approach and 8,000 year-old roots.

Lunch: We will have lunch with a wine tasting at Togonidze Winery. Togonidze Wines is a renowned producer of fine, natural wines that have been crafted with methodologies passed down through over 8,000 years. Grown in the vineyards next to the Satlianiskhevi River outside Telavi and not irrigated or treated chemically at any stage of production, these vineyards and the qvevris used to ferment the wines, embody their setting, and turn out vintages boasting complex aromas and bouquets. Located in Georgia’s Kakheti region nestled beneath rolling foothills within view of both Alazani Valley and the Caucasus Mountains, the company has earned worldwide recognition for its remarkable handcrafted selections as well as warm hospitality extended by its beloved Founder, Gia Togonidze and family.

Afternoon: We’ll drive back to Tsinandali village and the hotel. We will walk through the park connecting the hotel complex to the historical house museum and original winery at the Chavchavadze House Museum. Alexander Chavchavadze Museum Tsinandali Village is best known for the family estate of its namesake, located near here. A 19th-century Georgian aristocrat and poet, Chavchavadze managed to serve admirably in the Imperial Russian army during the times he wasn’t fighting Russia for Georgian independence. His estate was a center of the intellectual life of the time. Here he and his father founded the first and foremost winery in the country, which still produces the dry white Tsinandali wine. His mansion has been transformed into a museum in honor of the poet and hero. Afterwards, we’ll have some time to ourselves at the hotel before dinner.

Dinner: Enjoy the choice of restaurants at the Tsinandali complex for dinner on your own.

Evening: At leisure. Prepare for check-out and transfer in the morning.

Activity note: Getting on/off a bus; driving about 115 miles, approximately 5 hours riding time with stops. Transferring from the Kakheti region to the mountains. Our vehicle size today may be smaller as we travel via the Tianeti Road. Bus will park near to all sites visited today. The highest altitude today is Kazbegi town at 5,709'.

Breakfast: At the hotel.

Morning: We’ll ride on the bus to Kazbegi along a lesser-traveled route. We’ll make a stop at the feudal stronghold of Ananuri. Its notched fortress walls contain two churches and a 12th-century watchtower. The old frescoes in the churches are faded, but the carvings around the doorways and on the outside walls are still vibrant. Below the fortress at the foot of the green hills gleams the blue expanse of Zhinvali Reservoir, making this one of Georgia's most beautiful places. We’ll enjoy the scenic views along our route known as the Georgian Military Highway. The Highway was completed by Czar Alexander I in 1817. The czar’s engineers simply enlarged a track that had been used since at least 150 BCE – the only north-south route through the Greater Caucasus from Russia to Georgia. The spectacular highway runs from Tbilisi through rolling green hills and steep arid mountains dotted with ancient stone defensive towers, then over the Krestovy Pass at almost 8,000 feet. Along the way, herds of sheep may spill across the road and old fortress-like churches watch over the villages.

Lunch: At a local restaurant en route to Kazbegi.

Afternoon: Located at just over 7,800 feet near the town of Gudauri is a well-known viewpoint originally (now ironically) named Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument is a panoramic, semicircular concrete structure perched just off the Georgian Military Highway, offering stunning views of the steep Devil’s Valley and the Caucasus Mountains. The massive Soviet-era monument with its brightly colored mosaic artwork was built in 1983 to memorialize 200 years of friendship between Russia/Soviet Union and Georgia since the 1783 Treaty of Georgievsk, when Georgia was made a protectorate of the Russian Empire. The tile mosaics illustrate important milestones in Russian and Georgian history, whose political paths often crossed on this strategic highway near the Russia-Georgia border. Many historians and scholars say this celebrated friendship never existed, especially in this century of deadly conflicts and tensions between these two countries. In 2017, the monument underwent full restoration of the tile mosaics and foundation, along with a new visitors’ center and parking area where paragliding and mountain biking are available.

Dinner: At the hotel restaurant.

Evening: At leisure.

Activity note: Getting on/off a bus; driving 35 miles, approximately 1.5 hours riding time. Walking and standing at sites.

Breakfast: At the hotel.

Morning: We’ll board the bus to explore the local villages, starting with a visit to one of the country’s most iconic sites, Trinity Church. Perched on a hill above Kazbegi are the 14th-century church of Tsminda Sameba (Holy Trinity) and its bell tower, their silhouettes dark against the mountain. The church is located at about 7,120 feet elevation and is one of Georgia’s most iconic sites.

Lunch: We will enjoy a visit with a local family in the tiny village of Tsdo, where we’ll participate in a master class in the art of making khinkali. Khinkali are traditional savory Georgian dumpling filled with a variety of ingredients, from a mixture of ground mutton and pork, to vegetarian options including various combinations of potato, garlic, mushrooms, and cheese. In Georgia’s mountainous areas, cooks often mix in special signature spices that set their regional khinkali apart. We’ll feast on our creations together with the family while sipping fiery Georgian chacha, a strong traditional liquor made from grapes.

Afternoon: We’ll drive to the Russian border to visit the relatively recently-built Dariala Monastery of the Archangel, a beautiful ensemble meant to mark the Georgian border and symbolize peace.

Dinner: On your own to enjoy local fare.

Evening: At leisure. Prepare for check-out and transfer in the morning.

Activity note: Getting on/off a bus; driving about 175 miles, approximately 5 hours total riding time. Walking and standing at sites.

Breakfast: At the hotel.

Morning: Aboard the bus, we’ll set off down the Georgian Military Highway back to Tbilisi, with important en-route stops which will help us understand this country at a deeper level. The previous conflicts in the country have resulted in 20 percent of its total population categorized as internally displaced. Tserovani IDP (Internally Displaced Persons) Village is located roughly en route between Tbilisi and Gori. Here, on land owned by the Georgian government, 2’200 individual houses were constructed in about a week’s time, and thousands of internally displaced individuals were resettled to live in small, private cottages. We’ll stop in at the village and meet a few locals from the community and learn about their microbusinesses and entrepreneurial ventures.

Lunch: At a local restaurant en route to Gori.

Afternoon: On the way to Gori, a Georgian lecturer will join us for an on-bus lecture. We will learn more about the politics of Georgia from the period of Stalin to today before exploring his hometown. We’ll drive on to the town of Gori. Gori’s name comes from the Georgian word “goraki,” meaning hill. A 7th-century Georgian chronicle marks the first mention of the fortress, but the walls that survive today date from the Middle Ages. The city is best known for its connection with Stalin, who was born here in December 1879 and lived here until 1883. Stalin’s father was a local shoemaker named Vissarion Dzhugashvili, by all reports a cruel and abusive man. The family’s original wooden hut on Stalin Prospekt is today the Stalin House Museum. The city of Gori is perhaps best known for its connection with Stalin, who was born here in December 1879 and lived here as a boy. Stalin's father was a local shoemaker named Vissarion Dzhugashvili. The original wooden hut located on Stalin Prospekt is today part of the Stalin Museum. The Stalin statue which, until June 2010 stood on the main square of Gori, was the last one which still existed in its original location inside the former Soviet Union. One can still see the statue in its new location in the park near the original hut. Also on the grounds of the museum is Stalin’s former private railway car, which he used for travel throughout the Soviet Union and beyond. Following the museum visit, we will drive back to Tbilisi and check back in to the hotel for a final two-night stay.

Dinner: At the hotel or at a local restaurant.

Evening: At leisure.

Activity note: Getting on/off a bus to in-city private gardens. Elective stop at Orbeliani Bazaar which is part market, part food court for independent lunch. Extent and duration of walking and other free time activities according to personal choice.

Breakfast: At the hotel.

Morning: We will board the bus to visit the garden of Zura Shevardnadze, the most well-known gardener in Georgia. Through his pioneering work, Zura is revolutionizing landscape design in Georgia. He made history by becoming the country’s very first professional decorative gardener after the dissolution of Soviet Union – an inspiring step towards a new era! Gardenia Garden contains one of the most diverse collections of plants in Georgia. The bus will drop us at the Orbeliani Bazaar in order to explore and enjoy an independent lunch.

Lunch: On our own at Orbeliani Bazaar, where there are numerous eateries to choose from.

Afternoon: Free time.

Dinner: At a local restaurant in Tbilisi.

Evening: At leisure. Prepare for check-out and departure in the morning.

Activity note: Hotel check-out by 12:00 Noon, although most flights that connect to the USA depart Tbilisi very early in the morning.

Breakfast: At the hotel. This concludes our program.

Morning: If you are returning home, safe travels. If you are staying on independently, have a wonderful time. If you are transferring to another Road Scholar program, detailed instructions are included in your Information Packet for that program. We hope you enjoy Road Scholar learning adventures and look forward to having you on rewarding programs in the future. Don’t forget to join our Facebook page and follow us on Instagram. Best wishes for all your journeys!