My Costa Rica Journal — a Week Spent on a Road Scholar Adventure (Pt.3)

Welcome to the Hotel Monteverde.

A spectacular view of the Nicoya Peninsula and Pacific Coast spread before us amid panoramic landscapes at the Hotel Montaña Monteverde. Each sprawling cabin there is situated cliffside, and with our outdoor balconies under a blanket of stars, we found ourselves serenaded to sleep at night by howling coyotes. As for the birding, Monteverde is home to the Resplendent Quetzal. Spotting one is on many a wish list!

Flora & the Quakers.

Accepting our third invitation to visit a local family, the history of Marvin Rockwell and the Quakers who founded Monteverde was brought to life through the personal stories and photos shared by his wife, Flora. This smart and sweet Costa Rican native opened her home to us, shared memories of how she met and married Marvin and called him the one true love of her life “until his very last breath.” Her niece cooked up a delicious dinner for us all before Flora hugged us goodbye. What a joy to spend time in this woman’s presence.

The cloud forests.

Hummingbirds flitting through the gardens, motmots, orange-knee tarantulas (which can throw their prickly fur at you if you get too close) and a spotted paca crossing our path (that’s a cute Costa Rican rodent) were just some of the wonders we saw in the cloud forest. We even climbed inside the massive trunk of an ancient Strangling Fig tree, which can live up to 800 years! Only one percent of the forests in the entire world can be classified as cloud forests. Which made this experience extra special. And again, it’s great to know we are helping to save these rare cloud forests every time we visit a private reserve.

A sweet small town.

One little town we enjoyed walking around, this time while up in the mountains, was Santa Elena. I found a fantastic café called The Open Kitchen where I could sit outside and enjoy a Costa Rican latte made with those fresh Monteverde coffee beans! I loved these little moments of meandering among the locals, enjoying life the way they do and feeling welcomed into their community.

Bats. They’re not rodents. Or birds.

Visiting a bat rescue, we learned so much. For starters, these mammals aren’t blind, which was a real eye-opener. (They’re only colorblind.) Like cats, bats groom each other and purr, which helps heal injuries to their delicate bones and wings. They can move both wings in different directions, like hands. Bat midwives help deliver their babies, since bats give birth upside down. Oh, and the next time you’re enjoying a margarita, you can thank the bats … since they’re the only pollinator of the agave cactus!

Sunset and sangria.

Deynor tipped us off to a local evening ritual on a mountaintop in Monteverde and invited us to join this sunset party. We sat cliffside as if at a stadium, watching the sun put on a show as it began to sink into the Pacific. To match the celebratory vibe, Deynor even made his homemade Sangria for us, so we could toast to “Pura Vida!”  It’s the Costa Rican way to say ‘hello,’ ‘goodbye’ or simply to express that life is good.

The scary and the beautiful.

We knew we’d visit a butterfly garden … but no one told us we’d also learn about (and touch!) cockroaches and scorpions. Nevertheless, our smart and dramatic expert was so electrifying that you might say her love for all things crawly rubbed off on us. Especially when it came to the butterflies that flitted all around us. It felt magical to be there.

Mountain vistas, laughing falcons.

Before leaving the mountains, Estebán pulled over at a final overlook that he wanted to share with us for one last group photo. We had spent the week actively switching seats on van rides, in restaurants and on boat excursions, while varying our hiking partners, all for the sake of getting to know each other (which I highly recommend you do the next time you’re on a Road Scholar program). On that mountaintop, Deynor heard the voice of a Laughing Falcon. Grabbing his scope, he ran down the mountain to find it, setting up his camera so that we could tick off one last amazing bird from our list. 

Last stop, pura vida.

Adding one last personal touch to our program, Deynor was determined for us to step foot on the Pacific shore. So, after crossing the continental divide and zigzagging our way back down to sea level, he planned a lovely lunch for us on the coastline of Caldera Port. Walking along the beach, feeling the soft sand and warm surf while local families basked in the sun and frolicked in the ocean … now that’s pura vida!

Before our goodbyes. Sitting in an intimate semicircle before parting ways, Deynor asked us each to share which experiences had felt the most meaningful. By the time we heard from the last person in the group, we were all a little choked up. Road Scholar’s 2024 Campus of the Year filled our hearts with memories none of us will soon forget. 

That’s my third and final journal excerpt from Costa Rica, so thanks for following along! In case you missed the other posts in this series, here’s Part One and Part Two of my Costa Rica experience. Be sure and check out all of the exciting learning adventures that Road Scholar’s 2024 Campus of the Year has to offer. Until next time, —Lizzie G., Road Scholar Class of ’23