INDEPENDENT PARIS: My Road Scholar Experience

A Little About Me

I grew up in New York City, raised my two children in the suburbs, and am now back to city living — this time in Boston. Two of my biggest passions, walking and photography, go hand in hand. Whether I’m in my own city or traveling somewhere new, chances are you’ll find me walking around, discovering hidden gems and capturing them in photos.

Although I have a great appreciation for group learning adventures and have been on several, there are also times where I’d like to uncover for myself what’s around the next corner at my own pace. Although I walk fast and far, I tend to make a lot of sudden stops when I spot a photo that needs taking (which I realize can be slightly annoying to others).

I chose Independent Paris: People, Places, Culture as an opportunity for quality time with my (adult) son in a place we’ve both always wanted to visit. We’ve studied French for many years and love exploring new cities. Like me, Ben is curious and has a thirst for educational travel. He also makes for a great walking companion. He’s got a keen sense of direction and can cover a lot of ground quickly (although his stride is much longer since he’s about a foot taller than me).

Two of the biggest draws of signing up for an Independent City program with Road Scholar, for me, were that when it came to navigating the ins and outs of a foreign country where I’m not fluent in the language, I knew I’d have support when I needed it. And also, there are some activities and educational lectures provided along the way so that you really have the best of both worlds — a taste of group learning and adventure each day, plus lots of independent time for exploration!

The Ins and Outs of Independent Paris

From the moment we stepped off the plane at Charles de Gaulle — an airport that can seem daunting on the best of days — we had peace of mind in knowing that all we had to do was look for the person in the Road Scholar red vest who would be there to greet us and whisk us away into the heart of the city. Paris is a good 30 minutes from the airport, so not having to think about arranging transportation is a bonus.

Once we arrived at our hotel, we hit the ground running, not wanting to waste even a moment! The beauty of an independent learning adventure is not having to compromise on a schedule. We were free to quench our wanderlust from day one, while knowing we could ‘return to the nest’ for support and advice and have a ‘home base’ when we needed it.

Our Group Leader, Jo Lurie, taught us the intricacies of navigating the Metro (subway) and provided safety tips, advice and recommendations about anything and everything Paris has to offer. She then handed each of us a Metro pass and a museum pass for the week! Jo would patiently answer dozens upon dozens of questions every morning as we individually planned our outings. She’d also lead optional excursions for those who wanted to see Paris through her eyes.

Early each evening, Jo would anchor herself in the hotel lobby so that we could check in with her as we planned our own nighttime activities. She’d even provide a handwritten chart of the next day’s activities that we could easily refer to. Jo was invaluable — a font of knowledge, a wealth of information and always wearing a smile. Road Scholar is known for having exceptional Group Leaders, and Jo did not disappoint!

Road Scholar also provided experts to lecture most mornings for those who wanted to learn more about the city’s architecture, history and art. And we were treated to some curated experiences throughout the week as well, including a boat ride along the Seine (while enjoying a lovely dinner) and an evening concert inside the medieval Saint Chappelle royal chapel. These outings gave us the opportunity to share a few hours here and there with the group in between our independent forays.

As for our group members, I found them quite interesting. Two women — best friends since first grade — were taking this particular program together for a second time, because they liked it so much the first time around. Others in our group of 21 included two pairs of longtime friends, a set of siblings, a mother-daughter combo, a few couples, and three solo travelers. Several group members, in fact, had visited Paris before yet keep returning to this city that they love so much.

What Independent Paris Meant for Me

As for the way my son and I chose to ‘do Paris,’ he’s a professional musician and coffee connoisseur, so we knew we wanted to sample coffee shops by day and jazz clubs by night. By asking the locals, we learned where some of the coolest coffee shops were for high quality flat whites, cold brews and pour overs. We even scored a three-hour private coffee tasting with a master barista!

We spent a few late nights visiting some of the best jazz clubs in the city, where music is alive and well. (My son was even invited on stage to perform a couple of times!) We ventured to an iconic spot at dusk to stand at the base of the Eiffel Tower as it first lit up for the night and to see it sparkle (which, in May, wasn’t until 10 p.m.) We climbed hundreds of steps to the top of Montmartre to stand at the foot of Sacré Coeur twice that week. It’s such a historic, charming, cobblestoned, artsy village that we wanted to capture it in different types of light.

We uncovered the best baguettes at incredible boulangeries in Le Marais (where I’d live if I could) and savored buttery croissants at outdoor cafes, people-watching as the city came alive each morning. We sampled some of the best charcuterie and wine imaginable, scored a bench at the enchanting, tree-lined Place des Vosges and indulged at a bistro known for its hot chocolate (accompanied by a silver goblet filled with decadent whipped cream).

The café culture in this city was such a pleasant surprise. You can sit for hours and never once be approached by a server who wants you to pay the check. You see, in Paris, it’s expected that you’ll watch the world go by over a coffee or wine as you enjoy leisurely conversation and a bite to eat. There is no rush, and that’s a lesson I’d like to take home.

Ben and I meandered through les jardins (the gardens) including the Jardin du Palais Royal and the Jardin des Plantes, reveled in the ancient architecture of nearly every arrondissement (neighborhood district) and strolled along the Seine enjoying luxurious ice cream cones (from Berthillon on Île de la Cité, an area that stole a piece of my heart). We ducked in and out of the marchés (the outdoor markets) and figured out early on that if we spoke in French first, the locals would respond in kind. They were always friendly and welcoming, while we got to practice speaking the language.

Bonne Nuit, Paris

Bidding good night to Paris and returning home (reluctantly) from our Independent City exploration gave us a newfound confidence in world travel and a sense of accomplishment at having conquered a foreign city (mostly) on our own.

Independent Paris enabled us to embrace our independence even while enjoying access to experts, unique activities and an all-important safety net. Paris is always a good idea … but doing it with Road Scholar is even better.

So, if you’ve always wished you could visit the city of your dreams in exactly the way you want to, yet have felt too intimidated to try, maybe now you’ll go ahead and give it a whirl. Here’s a compilation of all the Independent City Discoveries offered by Road Scholar to whet your appetite. Now get out there and explore!

If you’ve enjoyed this peek inside an independent program in the City of Light and are curious to learn about other Road Scholar educational experiences, here are recent overviews of my journeys to Ireland and Costa Rica.